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company that now operates passenger trains over the route—explained to PTJ what happened next within the complex world of rail politics in British Columbia.
BCR maintains ownership of the roadbed beneath the tracks. In 2003 the railway issued a Request for Proposal (RFP) for companies interested in leasing rights to run freight trains over the tracks; Canadian National subsequently acquired this contract. CN then solicited what BCR calls "Passenger Tourism Rail." Rocky Mountaineer's proposal won, with RMV paying CN for rights to run passenger trains over the former BC Rail tracks.
RMV began running two of its hallmark all-daylight tourist trains over this remarkable route in May 2006. The Whistler Mountaineer travels between North Vancouver and Whistler. The "Fraser Discovery Route" has the acclaimed Rocky Mountaineer equipment running between Whistler and Quesnel with an overnight hotel stop, then joining the CN line to Jasper, Alta. These seasonal trains operated in 2006 between May and mid-October.
RMV's trains take guests into some of the most scenic areas of Western Canada. Knowledgeable and helpful staff familiar with the history of the territory, along with fine food and service, enhance the experience. The company offers independent packages with hotels and sightseeing in addition to the rail journey.
Now, let's climb aboard for a trip from North Vancouver to Jasper.
It's 8:30AM as the Whistler Mountaineer, with two classes of service, departs from North Vancouver. The single-level, first-class "Glacier Domes" are rebuilt former CN cars, with high windows curving into the roof. The "Coast Classic" experience offers conventional coaches. A vintage wooden open-air mountain observation car, built in 1914 for Canadian Pacific, is located mid-train.
Casually-dressed passengers enjoy a hot breakfast in the Glacier Dome cars as the train passes beachfront parks, then rolls past mansions in West Vancouver where extravagant gardens flourish. The Glacier Dome fairly floats along over well-maintained rails, enters a forest where wild white dogwoods bloom then curves north through a 4,000-foot tunnel, emerging high above Horseshoe Bay, a major BC Ferry terminal.
Continuing along Howe Sound we pass Squamish, a mecca for rock climbers with its high cliff. Our pleasant, efficient on-board attendants point out a photo opportunity as we creep across a trestle over the Cheakamus River, with rapids and waterfalls far below.
Upon our 11:30AM arrival at Whistler, buses whisk passengers to various hotels in Whistler Village where we'll overnight. With shops and restaurants of every variety, Whistler is a European-style mountain resort featuring skiing and golf, and Vancouver will host the 2010 Winter Olympics.
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The next morning, we're experiencing RMV's "Fraser Discovery Route" from Whistler north to Quesnel. Today's rare-mileage tracks lead us through the wilderness of the Cariboo and Chilcotin regions of British Columbia, providing what is probably the most dramatic variety of scenery available on a train trip anywhere.
The Fraser Discovery Route also offers two service levels. "RedLeaf" uses former CN DayNiter coaches with high-backed, reclining legrest chairs. Guests are served boxed meals at their seats. First-class "GoldLeaf Dome" guests occupy bilevel cars built by Colorado Railcar. They are seated under a full-length glass dome, with a gourmet dining area and open-air platform downstairs.
Along the Fraser Discovery Route, the train rolls past the shores of Alta Lake, skirts sparkling waterfalls and white water, rambles under snow-covered peaks and through lush forests, passes farms and cattle ranches, and even frightens a herd of buffalo into stampeding. Passing a herd of wild, big-horned sheep, we plunge through tunnels and cling to steep, avalanche-scarred canyons walls.
The train rolls into curves so sharp the steel wheels scream. Soon we're edging along the shores of long, clear Anderson Lake and then jade-green Seton Lake.
The gold-rush town of Lillooet—once home to 15,000 and now with a population of just 1,000—is the largest settlement we've seen since Whistler.
Dry sagebrush and grass replace the lush green landscape. The wide, muddy Fraser River appears as it erodes its way into a deep canyon. On a narrow roadbed carved from open slopes, the rails climb 2,000 feet above the river. Irrigated on wide canyon shelves below grow mint, ginseng, and alfalfa.
Somehow, while cameras click and we drink in the scenery, we manage to enjoy breakfast, lunch, and occasional snacks. The Rocky Mountaineer crew will never let guests go hungry or thirsty.
The rails curve along a tributary up to the Cariboo Plateau, with tangles of woods, shallow ponds and beaver dams. Suddenly we come upon a huge, deep crack in the earth. Our onboard attendant, Tasha, grew up in this area. As she serves us slices of cake, she explains that it is called the "chasm."
The terrain changes abruptly yet again as a wide stream meanders through meadow-like countryside. We roll to a stop in Quesnel, a major lumber processing center, for a restaurant dinner and overnight hotel stay.
The next morning finds us aboard the Gold-Leaf Dome. Breakfast is served in the dining room, which is decorated with fine paintings and fresh flowers. The Fraser Discovery Route train departs Quesnel, through thick forest, as it heads to Jasper. |
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The junction of the former BCR line and CN's "North Line" at Prince George is the end of the rare mileage, but marks the beginning of heavy-duty railroading, with Centralized Traffic Control, much double track and long passing sidings. This CN line is also the route of VIA's Jasper, Alta.-Prince Rupert, B.C. Skeena.
The tracks loop southeast into the Rocky Mountain Trench, with the Canadian Rockies towering to the left and the Cariboo Range to the right. It's cloudy and rainy, with bursts of hail, but we're cozy under the glass-topped dome. The glacier-topped mountains display fresh snow that's dusting trees at the higher elevations. Sunbeams break through to dazzle the high, lonely snow-fields, reflected in Moose Lake, with a nether-worldly glow. We reach the Continental Divide at the summit of Yellowhead Pass.
An onboard attendant warns, "Bears ahead!," causing great excitement and clicking of cameras. Someone else calls, "A herd of elk to the left!"
Then we're in Jasper, in the heart of the Rockies, and the end of our very pleasant three-day introduction to Rocky Mountaineer's new routes.
Kicking Horse Route is a two-day, all-daylight itinerary between Vancouver, Banff and Calgary, with an overnight hotel stop in Kamloops. This train follows the scenic and historic CP route through the Spiral Tunnels, Lake Louise and Kicking Horse Pass.
RMV's Yellowhead Route splits off at Kamloops, traveling past Pyramid Falls and Mt. Robson to Jasper on the more northerly CN main line.
For high-season travel (between June 1 and Sept. 30), the two trains we took—including three days on the train and meals while aboard, plus hotels in Whistler and Quesnel— will cost about $900U.S. per person for coach class and popular hotels on a shared-double basis. For first-class rail and superior hotels, cost will be about $1,700U.S. per person.
Your travel agent can book with RMV for you, and customize an itinerary including other railroads and Alaskan cruises. Or you may contact RMV directly at 1-800-665-7245 or www.rockymountaineer.com.
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